Every Hermès bag carries a small, embossed marking hidden discreetly in the leather — a blind stamp that reveals the year the bag was manufactured and, in most cases, the individual artisan who made it. For collectors, investors and authenticators, understanding these stamps is fundamental. They establish provenance, verify age, and serve as a key authentication marker.
This guide covers everything you need to know about Hermès blind stamps: where to find them, how to decode them, the evolution of the system over the decades, and what the stamps reveal about your bag.
What Is a Blind Stamp?
A blind stamp is an impression pressed into leather without ink — hence the term "blind." On Hermès bags, the blind stamp consists of a single letter (indicating the year of manufacture) enclosed in a shape (or no shape, depending on the era). The stamp is small — typically 3 to 5 millimetres — and can be difficult to read without magnification, especially on textured leathers like Togo.
The stamp is not decorative. It is a production marker — a quality control system that allows Hermès to trace every bag back to the year it was made and the artisan who crafted it. This traceability is one of the factors that distinguishes Hermès from virtually every other luxury brand.
Where to Find the Blind Stamp
The location of the blind stamp varies by model.
Birkin: The stamp is located on the front of the bag, on the left-hand strap beneath the turn-lock flap. To find it, turn the front strap (the one that passes through the hardware) outward and look at the underside near the base of the strap. You may need a magnifying glass, especially on Togo or Clemence leather.
Kelly: The stamp is located under the front flap, on the leather near the top of the bag's body. Open the flap fully and look at the interior surface just below where the flap connects.
Constance: The stamp is typically on the back of the bag, near the top under the strap.
Other models: Evelyne, Picotin, Bolide and other models carry their stamps in various locations, usually on a strap or under a flap. If in doubt, an authenticator can locate the stamp.
The Year Letter System
Hermès has used a letter-based system to indicate the year of manufacture since 1945. The system has evolved through several eras.
1945–1970: Letters A through Z were used, one per year, with no enclosing shape. A = 1945, B = 1946, and so on through Z = 1970.
1971–1996: The alphabet restarted at A and cycled through Z again, this time with each letter enclosed in a circle. A in a circle = 1971, B in a circle = 1972, through Z in a circle = 1996.
1997–2014: The alphabet restarted again, this time with each letter enclosed in a square. A in a square = 1997, B in a square = 1998, through R in a square = 2014.
2015–present: In 2015, Hermès changed the system. Letters are no longer enclosed in shapes. Instead, a single letter indicates the year: T = 2015, X = 2016, A = 2017, C = 2018, D = 2019, Y = 2020, Z = 2021, U = 2022, B = 2023, W = 2024, E = 2025, I = 2026.
Note that from 2015 onward, the letters do not follow alphabetical order. This appears to be deliberate — making it harder to predict future stamps and making counterfeiting more difficult.
The Artisan Stamp
In addition to the year letter, most Hermès bags carry a separate artisan stamp — a smaller marking that identifies the individual craftsman who made the bag. This is typically a single letter, a number, or a two-character combination.
The artisan stamp is usually located adjacent to the year stamp, though its exact position varies. It is not publicly documented which artisan corresponds to which stamp — this information is internal to Hermès.
For collectors, the artisan stamp adds a layer of provenance and personal connection. Some collectors develop preferences for specific artisans based on the quality of their work — particularly the consistency of stitching and the precision of hardware alignment.
What Stamps Reveal About Your Bag
The blind stamp system provides several valuable pieces of information for pre-owned buyers.
Age verification. The stamp allows you to confirm the bag's age independently. If a seller claims a bag is from 2020 but the stamp indicates 2016, there is a discrepancy that requires explanation.
Authentication support. The stamp format should be consistent with genuine Hermès stamps for the claimed era. Incorrect fonts, wrong enclosure shapes, or missing stamps are red flags for counterfeit bags. However, the stamp alone is not sufficient for authentication — it should be assessed alongside all other authentication markers.
Production era context. Knowing the year of manufacture places the bag in context — you can determine which leathers, colours and hardware finishes were available in that year, and whether the bag's specifications are consistent with what Hermès was producing at the time.
Value implications. In general, newer bags command higher prices than older bags in equivalent condition, because they are closer to current retail prices and aesthetics. However, vintage pieces from the 1990s and earlier can command premiums if they are in exceptional condition or feature rare leathers and colours.
Common Questions
Can the stamp be faked? Yes. Counterfeit manufacturers do produce fake stamps. However, the quality of the embossing, the font, the depth and the positioning are all markers that experienced authenticators can assess.
What if the stamp is unreadable? On heavily textured leathers or well-used bags, the stamp can become difficult to read. This is normal and does not indicate a problem — but it does mean you may need a magnifying glass or professional assessment.
Do all Hermès products have blind stamps? Most leather goods carry year stamps, including bags, belts, wallets and small leather goods. However, some accessories — particularly scarves, jewellery and non-leather items — use different marking systems.
Why This Matters for Buyers
When purchasing a pre-owned Hermès bag, always ask the seller to identify the blind stamp and confirm the year of manufacture. A reputable seller will be able to locate and read the stamp. If a seller cannot or will not provide this information, it raises questions about their expertise and the bag's authenticity.
At JULL, we document the blind stamp on every bag we sell. Our authentication process includes verifying the stamp against the bag's specifications, condition and provenance. Contact us if you need help reading or verifying a stamp on a bag you own or are considering purchasing.
Stamps and the Pre-Owned Market in London
Understanding blind stamps is particularly valuable in the London pre-owned market, where bags from multiple decades and production eras circulate simultaneously. A buyer browsing pre-owned Hermès in London might encounter bags spanning thirty years of production — from square-stamped pieces of the late 1990s to current-era stampless letters.
Each era carries different expectations for condition and value. A bag from 2005 in excellent condition is a remarkable find and may command a premium among collectors who appreciate vintage pieces. A bag from 2023 in the same condition is expected to present well, as it is relatively recent. The stamp provides the context needed to assess condition fairly.
For sellers preparing to list a pre-owned Hermès bag, knowing your stamp date helps you price accurately. Bags from the current stamp era (2015 onward) generally achieve the strongest prices, as they are perceived as more contemporary. Bags from the square-stamp era (1997–2014) trade at moderate discounts. Circle-stamp and pre-circle bags (before 1997) are considered vintage and are priced based primarily on rarity and condition rather than proximity to current retail.
A Note on Special Orders
Hermès special order bags — also known as HSS (Horseshoe Stamp) pieces — carry an additional marking: a small horseshoe symbol stamped near the blind stamp. This horseshoe indicates that the bag was custom-ordered by a client, who selected the specific colour, leather, hardware and often contrast stitching or bi-colour combinations.
HSS bags are among the most collectible pieces on the pre-owned market. The horseshoe stamp confirms the bag's special-order status and typically adds a meaningful premium — often 15–30% above an equivalent standard-production piece. Collectors actively seek HSS pieces for their uniqueness and the personalisation they represent.
If you are examining a bag that claims to be a special order, verify the presence of the horseshoe stamp. Its absence on an allegedly custom piece is a significant red flag.