Choosing the right leather is one of the most important decisions when buying a Hermès bag — yet it is one of the least discussed. While most buyers focus on model, colour and size, the leather fundamentally affects how the bag looks, feels, ages and holds its value. A Birkin in Togo and a Birkin in Epsom are genuinely different bags, even if the dimensions and colour are identical.
This guide provides a detailed comparison of the three most popular Hermès leathers — Togo, Epsom and Clemence — covering texture, durability, weight, structure, ageing, and resale performance. It also covers less common leathers that are worth knowing about.
Togo: The Gold Standard
Togo is the most popular and widely produced Hermès leather. It is made from baby bull calfskin (veau) and has a distinctive pebbled grain — a natural, slightly irregular texture that gives the leather a warm, organic character.
Texture and feel. Togo has a soft, supple feel with enough body to maintain the bag's shape. It is neither rigid nor floppy — it strikes a balance that makes it suitable for both structured and relaxed bag styles. The grain pattern varies slightly from hide to hide, which means no two Togo bags are exactly the same.
Durability. Togo is exceptionally durable. The textured grain disguises minor scratches and scuffs, making it one of the most forgiving leathers for daily use. Most light scratches can be buffed out with a soft cloth. Togo resists water spotting better than smooth leathers like Box calf and is not prone to colour transfer.
Weight. Togo is a medium-weight leather. A Birkin 30 in Togo weighs approximately 800 grams empty — heavier than Epsom but lighter than some other leathers.
Structure and slouch. In a Birkin, Togo produces a gently slouched, relaxed silhouette. The bag settles naturally when set down, with soft, rounded edges. Over time and with use, the slouch becomes more pronounced — a characteristic many collectors love. In a Kelly Retourné, Togo creates a soft, approachable shape. Togo is generally not used for Kelly Sellier because it lacks the rigidity required for that construction.
Ageing. Togo ages beautifully. It develops a subtle patina over years of use — the grain softens slightly and the leather takes on a warmer, more lived-in character. A well-maintained Togo bag at five or ten years looks better, not worse, than when new.
Resale performance. Togo is the most liquid leather on the resale market. It has the broadest appeal, the fastest sale times, and the most consistent premiums. If you are buying with value retention in mind, Togo is the safest choice.
Epsom: Lightweight and Structured
Epsom is a pressed calfskin leather with a rigid, uniform texture. Unlike Togo, which has a natural grain, Epsom's texture is mechanically stamped — creating a consistent, geometric pattern across the entire surface.
Texture and feel. Epsom feels firm, dry and slightly papery compared to Togo. It has a matte finish with a subtle sheen. The stamped grain is regular and uniform — there is none of the natural variation found in Togo or Clemence.
Durability. Epsom is highly scratch-resistant — arguably the most durable of the three main leathers for daily use. The pressed grain creates a hard, protective surface that resists marks, scuffs and water spots. However, if Epsom does get deeply scratched, the damage is more difficult to repair than on Togo, because the stamped pattern cannot be naturally buffed.
Weight. Epsom is the lightest of the three main leathers. This makes it particularly desirable in larger sizes (Kelly 28, Birkin 30) where the weight of the bag can become a practical concern.
Structure and slouch. Epsom is the most structured leather. It holds its shape firmly and does not slouch — making it the standard choice for Kelly Sellier, where a rigid, architectural form is essential. In a Birkin, Epsom creates a more upright, boxy silhouette than Togo. Some buyers love this structured look; others find it less relaxed and characterful than a softer leather.
Ageing. Epsom does not develop a patina in the way that Togo or Clemence does. It maintains its original appearance over time — the colour remains consistent and the texture does not soften. For buyers who want their bag to look the same in five years as it does today, this is an advantage. For those who value the evolution and character that comes with patina, it may be a drawback.
Resale performance. Epsom performs very well on the resale market, particularly in Kelly Sellier bags and smaller models like the Constance 18 and Kelly Mini. It is the second most liquid leather after Togo.
Clemence: Soft and Relaxed
Clemence is another baby bull calfskin leather, closely related to Togo but with a softer, more matte finish. It is one of the original Hermès leathers and has been in continuous production for decades.
Texture and feel. Clemence has a slightly larger, flatter grain than Togo and a more matte, velvety surface. It is noticeably softer and more supple to the touch — it drapes and bends more easily than Togo. In hand, Clemence has a rich, buttery feel that many collectors consider the most tactilely luxurious of the standard leathers.
Durability. Clemence is durable but slightly more susceptible to scratches than Togo. The larger grain pattern is more forgiving than smooth leathers but less forgiving than Togo's tighter pebble. Clemence can also show colour variation with heavy use — areas of frequent contact may become slightly lighter or darker over time.
Weight. Clemence is slightly heavier than Togo due to its denser hide. The difference is not dramatic but can be noticeable in larger sizes.
Structure and slouch. Clemence is the most relaxed of the three leathers. It slouches significantly — a Birkin in Clemence will settle into a soft, draped shape that is distinctly different from the same bag in Togo or Epsom. Some buyers love this relaxed, lived-in aesthetic. Others find it too unstructured for their taste.
Ageing. Clemence develops a beautiful patina with time. The leather softens further, the grain relaxes, and the surface takes on a warm, worn-in character. Vintage Clemence bags in good condition have an extraordinary depth and warmth.
Resale performance. Clemence performs well but is the third most liquid of the three main leathers. It has a strong following among collectors who value its softness and patina, but the broader market tends to prefer Togo's versatility and Epsom's structure.
Other Leathers Worth Knowing
Swift. A smooth, soft calfskin with a rich sheen. Beautiful to look at and touch, but highly susceptible to scratches, colour transfer and water marks. Best for special-occasion bags rather than daily carriers.
Box Calf (Veau Box). One of the finest and most refined leathers in production — a smooth, mirror-like calfskin that develops an extraordinary patina over decades. Prized by vintage collectors but impractical for heavy daily use due to its susceptibility to scratches and water.
Barenia. An untreated, natural leather with a warm, buttery feel. Barenia darkens significantly with use and exposure to light, developing a rich, deep patina. It is a connoisseur's leather — those who love it, love it deeply.
Chèvre (Goatskin). A firm, fine-grained leather with a natural sheen. Chèvre is lightweight, durable and holds its shape well. It is used primarily for interiors but occasionally appears on small leather goods and limited-edition bags.
Which Should You Choose?
Choose Togo if you want the most versatile, all-purpose leather. It works in every bag model, every colour and every context. It is the safest choice for both daily use and long-term value retention.
Choose Epsom if you want a lightweight, structured bag that maintains its shape. It is the best choice for Kelly Sellier, Constance and smaller models. It is ideal if you prefer a clean, architectural aesthetic.
Choose Clemence if you love soft, relaxed leather and appreciate the character that develops with use. It is the most tactile and sensual of the three leathers. It is best suited to the Birkin and Kelly Retourné, where its natural drape enhances the design.
At JULL, we carry pieces in all three leathers and can source specific leather-colour-hardware combinations on request. Contact us with your preferences and we will find the perfect piece.
