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Hermès Jewellery Guide 2026: Farandole to Kelly Cadenas

This is not, in other words, a jewellery house that sets out to compete with Cartier or with Van Cleef. It is a leather house that makes jewellery — most of it silver, some of it 18k gold, occasionally diamond-paved — with the same discipline it applies to a Kelly Sellier. The pieces are graphic. They tolerate wear. They resist trend. And, for the buyer who reaches this section of the catalogue, they read as the second signature: the one you already own an Hermès bag.

This guide covers the six lines that make up the bulk of demand in London in 2026 — Chaîne d'Ancre, Farandole, Kelly Cadenas, Collier de Chien, Clic Clac, and Kelly Gourmette — with sizing, materials, price references, and a note on which pieces are currently in the JULL Knightsbridge stock room.

Chaîne d'Ancre: the anchor chain that started it all

Chaîne d'Ancre is the founding jewellery line. Designed by Robert Dumas in 1938 and inspired by the mooring chains he watched at Cavalière on the Côte d'Azur, it is composed of interlocking oval anchor links, each with an internal bar (the "stud"), rendered in silver or 18k gold. Everything else in the Hermès jewellery catalogue — including many pieces that carry other names — traces back to this shape.

Chaîne d'Ancre exists in every conceivable size and metal:

- **Chaîne d'Ancre Enchaînée** — the standard chain, in silver or gold, in bracelet, long necklace, and choker lengths. - **Chaîne d'Ancre Punk** — sharper, angular version launched by Pierre Hardy in 2010. Small production runs; harder to find pre-owned. - **Chaîne d'Ancre Divine** — thinner, more delicate variant. - **Chaîne d'Ancre Ronde** — round rather than oval links; less common. - **Chaîne d'Ancre Danaé** — a bracelet variant with rose gold and pavé diamonds on select links, which we [currently hold in small size](https://byjull.com/shop/hermes-chaine-d-ancre-danae-bracelet-small-18k-yellow-gold-16). - **Chaîne d'Ancre Calypso** — a ring version, of which we hold a medium in 18k yellow gold with diamonds.

Retail on a new silver Chaîne d'Ancre bracelet (small, MM, GM) sits between £800 and £1,650 in 2026 depending on size. In 18k yellow gold, the same bracelet ranges from £3,900 (small) to £14,500 (GM) new. Diamond-set Danaé and Calypso pieces begin at £4,800 and climb quickly.

On the secondary market, Chaîne d'Ancre in silver holds value stubbornly — pre-owned bracelets in immaculate condition sit at 65–80% of new retail. Gold versions, particularly the Danaé variant, are more consistent still.

Farandole: the long silver necklace that shows up on every editor

The Farandole is a Hermès invention that has quietly become one of its most-worn pieces. A single-strand silver chain of small linked segments, it comes in lengths from 60cm to 160cm and is designed to be doubled, tripled, or worn full-length as a statement piece over a knit.

There are four principal lengths:

- **60cm** — sits at the collarbone, worn single. - **80cm** — doubles as a choker + necklace, our most-requested length. - **120cm** — long chain, worn full or doubled twice. - **160cm** — a full-body drape, worn open over a jumper or knotted.

In sterling silver, retail is approximately £850 (60cm), £1,050 (80cm), £1,650 (120cm), and £2,200 (160cm) in 2026. The Farandole also exists in 18k rose gold, in which case the same lengths cost approximately five to seven times more.

We currently hold [two silver Farandoles](https://byjull.com/shop/jewellery) at the showroom: an 80cm and a 120cm. Both are new-with-tags; both are pieces that turn over quickly, because there is no shorter route to an Hermès jewellery signature than a doubled Farandole over a black polo neck.

Kelly Cadenas: the padlock as pendant

The Kelly Cadenas takes the padlock — the cadenas — from the front of a Kelly Sellier and turns it into a pendant. It is one of Hermès's more literal jewellery moves and, precisely because of that, one of its cleverest.

The Cadenas pendant comes in silver, 18k yellow gold, 18k rose gold, and — in the pieces that surface most consistently at auction — 18k rose gold with sapphires or pavé diamonds. Chain lengths vary: 42cm (short necklace, choker-adjacent), 45cm (standard), 50cm (long).

Retail 2026: silver, approximately £600; 18k gold plain, £3,900; rose gold with a single sapphire, £6,200 (the version [we currently stock](https://byjull.com/shop/hermes-kelly-cadenas-pendant-rose-gold-sapphire)); full diamond pavé, £14,500+.

The Kelly Cadenas is the piece a client buys when she has three Kellys and needs to signal it once, quietly. It is not a subtle object — the padlock reference is immediate — but it is a knowing one.

Collier de Chien: the studded dog collar, at the wrist

The Collier de Chien (CDC) began as a dog collar — Hermès's original saddler catalogue included them — and, in the 1990s, was reimagined as a wide leather cuff bracelet with palladium or gold hardware and pyramid studs. It has since become one of the maison's most-worn bracelet references, alongside the Kelly Dog and the Rivale.

There are two families of CDC:

- **Leather CDC** — wide (26mm), pyramid-studded, with a rectangular H-shaped clasp. Worn on its own or stacked. Prices £1,900–£3,200 new depending on leather and hardware. - **Rose gold or yellow gold CDC bracelet** — a slimmer, all-metal reinterpretation, with the studs rendered as gold pyramids and, on some pieces, diamond pavé. This is the [reference we currently hold](https://byjull.com/shop/hermes-collier-de-chien-bracelet-rose-gold-diamonds-sh) — small size, rose gold, diamonds. Retail on this version is approximately £13,000; pre-owned market sits at 70–80%.

The CDC in leather is one of the most durable bracelets Hermès makes. Barenia examples soften over five years into something better than they arrived. Epsom and box calf versions hold their shape indefinitely.

Clic Clac and Clic H: the enamel bangles

The Clic Clac H (rectangular, wider) and the Clic H (round, narrower) are enamel-and-palladium bangles produced in some of the strongest palettes Hermès prints on scarves. They are, for many first-time Hermès jewellery buyers, the point of entry: retail £450–£620 in 2026, worn stacked with other bangles or on their own with a linen shirt.

We do not currently hold a Clic H or Clic Clac in stock — they turn over within days when they arrive. If you are looking for a specific colour combination (Rouge Casaque + palladium, Craie + gold, Bleu Marine + palladium), email the showroom and we source through European boutiques.

Kelly Gourmette: the chain bracelet with the padlock

The Kelly Gourmette is a curb-link bracelet — smaller, softer links than the Chaîne d'Ancre — with a miniature Kelly padlock as the clasp. It exists in silver, 18k yellow gold, 18k rose gold, and diamond-paved versions. We [currently hold a rose gold + diamond version](https://byjull.com/shop/hermes-kelly-gourmette-bracelet-rose-gold-diamonds-lg) in large size.

Retail on the plain rose gold reference sits around £8,500. The diamond version we hold retails at £16,000+.

The Kelly Gourmette layers well with a slimmer Chaîne d'Ancre and, on its own, is one of the few Hermès bracelets that reads simultaneously as jewellery and as accessory. It is, for the client who owns a Kelly Sellier, the most direct piece to add second.

A note on sizing

Hermès uses a bracelet sizing system that runs (in ascending order):

- **TPM (très petit modèle)** — extra-small, sits high on a slim wrist. - **SH (small hand) / small** — small size, our most-requested wrist size for the majority of clients. - **PM (petit modèle) / small-medium** — small-medium, correct for most European women's wrists. - **MM (moyen modèle) / medium** — medium size. - **GM (grand modèle) / large** — larger; men's wrists and some women's stacking preferences. - **TGM (très grand modèle)** — largest.

The most-requested sizes at JULL, in order: SH, PM, MM. For rings, Hermès uses European sizing (48, 50, 52, 53, 54 typical women's range).

If you are unsure of your correct size, we recommend a private viewing before committing — the difference between an SH and a PM Chaîne d'Ancre is a matter of a few millimetres, but it changes the way the piece falls at the wrist.

Materials and care

Hermès jewellery uses sterling silver (925), 18k yellow gold, 18k rose gold, and — for pavé and set pieces — VVS-clarity round-brilliant diamonds, sapphires, and, in the more elaborate references, emeralds. All hallmarks are French, with the maker's punch and the Head-of-Eagle (or, on English retail, the corresponding UK hallmark) present on the piece.

Silver requires occasional polishing — a soft cloth, no chemicals — to retain its finish. Gold is essentially indestructible under normal wear. Diamond-set pieces should be inspected annually for prong tension. Any piece bought through JULL comes with a service check as part of the sale.

Enamel bracelets (Clic Clac, Clic H, Émail) should not be exposed to perfume, chlorine, or vigorous alcohol contact. A drop of perfume on enamel over years produces micro-crazing — cosmetically minor but visible at close inspection.

Comparison table: which Hermès jewellery for whom

| Line | Materials | Sizes | Retail range 2026 | Best worn | |---|---|---|---|---| | Chaîne d'Ancre Enchaînée | Silver / 18k gold | Bracelet, choker, long | £800 – £14,500 | Everyday, stacked, forever | | Chaîne d'Ancre Danaé | 18k gold + diamonds | Bracelet | £4,800 – £11,000 | Evening, jewellery-forward | | Farandole | Silver / 18k rose gold | 60 / 80 / 120 / 160cm | £850 – £15,000 | Doubled or full-drop | | Kelly Cadenas | Silver / 18k gold + stones | Pendant | £600 – £14,500 | Statement, knowing | | Collier de Chien | Leather + hardware; 18k + diamonds | SH / PM / MM / GM | £1,900 – £13,000 | Everyday cuff or evening | | Clic Clac / Clic H | Palladium + enamel | PM / GM | £450 – £700 | First Hermès, stacked | | Kelly Gourmette | Silver / 18k gold + diamonds | SH / PM / MM / GM | £900 – £16,000 | With a Kelly on the arm |

Frequently asked questions

The gold and diamond references hold value very well — pre-owned Chaîne d'Ancre in 18k gold and Collier de Chien in rose gold + diamonds trade at 70–85% of retail even after several years of wear. Silver references depreciate more, typically settling at 55–70% of retail on the pre-owned market. Enamel bracelets depreciate the fastest because the enamel finish softens with wear.

Silver, for most first-time buyers. A silver Chaîne d'Ancre bracelet in PM or a silver Farandole 80cm delivers the design language of the maison at a fraction of the gold entry point, and both wear indefinitely. Move to gold once you know the piece has become a permanent part of your wear pattern.

Yes. Every Hermès piece carries the maker's mark (Hermès in a rectangular punch) plus the metal hallmark (925 for silver, 750 for 18k gold) and the French assay office punch (head-of-eagle for gold, boar's head for silver). English-market pieces are additionally UK-assayed at London Assay Office. If a piece lacks hallmarking, it is not authentic Hermès jewellery.

Yes, freely. Hermès jewellery is designed to stack — with itself, with Cartier, with vintage. The Chaîne d'Ancre pairs particularly well with Cartier Love or Trinity. The Collier de Chien sits well next to a slim Van Cleef Perlée. The Farandole is designed for layering.

Ring resizing and chain shortening we arrange through our London workshop with a two-week turnaround. Bracelet sizing (adding or removing links on Chaîne d'Ancre) is done by Hermès service centres directly and takes four to six weeks. We handle the logistics for both.

New: Hermès New Bond Street and Sloane Street boutiques. Pre-owned and new-with-tags: JULL Knightsbridge, by private appointment. For rarer archive pieces (older Chaîne d'Ancre lengths, discontinued Ronde variants), we source through Paris.

The pieces currently in the JULL Knightsbridge stock room

- [Chaîne d'Ancre Danaé Bracelet · 18k Yellow Gold · Small](https://byjull.com/shop/hermes-chaine-d-ancre-danae-bracelet-small-18k-yellow-gold-16) - [Chaîne d'Ancre Calypso Ring · 18k Yellow Gold + Diamonds · Medium](https://byjull.com/shop/hermes-chaine-d-ancre-calypso-ring-medium-18k-yellow-gold-diamonds-54) - [Chaîne d'Ancre Kelly Gavroche Double Ring · 18k Yellow Gold + Diamonds](https://byjull.com/shop/hermes-chaine-d-ancre-kelly-gavroche-double-ring-18k-yellow-gold-diamonds-53) - [Kelly Cadenas Pendant · Rose Gold + Sapphire](https://byjull.com/shop/hermes-kelly-cadenas-pendant-rose-gold-sapphire) - [Collier de Chien Bracelet · Rose Gold + Diamonds · SH](https://byjull.com/shop/hermes-collier-de-chien-bracelet-rose-gold-diamonds-sh) - [Kelly Gourmette Bracelet · Rose Gold + Diamonds · Large](https://byjull.com/shop/hermes-kelly-gourmette-bracelet-rose-gold-diamonds-lg) - [Farandole Long Necklace · Silver · 80cm](https://byjull.com/shop/hermes-farandole-long-necklace-80cm-silver) - [Farandole Long Necklace · Silver · 120cm](https://byjull.com/shop/hermes-farandole-long-necklace-120-silver-long-chain-necklace)

Private viewings at Knightsbridge are by appointment. For any piece not currently on the stock page, we source through European boutiques and typically deliver within four to eight weeks.

*JULL is a specialist in new, unworn and pre-owned Hermès in London. Every jewellery piece is authenticated by our team and hallmark-inspected before it enters the showroom. UK delivery is same-day within London for confirmed clients.*

London · July 2026← Back to Journal

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