The Hermès Picotin Lock is one of the most accessible and versatile bags in the Hermès lineup — and increasingly, one of the most sought-after. Originally designed as a simple, open-top bucket bag inspired by equestrian feed bags, the Picotin has evolved into a genuine cult favourite among collectors, first-time Hermès buyers and fashion insiders alike.
Unlike the Birkin and Kelly, which require extensive purchase histories and boutique relationships to acquire at retail, the Picotin is sometimes available without the same level of allocation pressure. This accessibility, combined with its practical design, wide range of colours and leathers, and comparatively approachable price point, has made the Hermès Picotin the definitive entry bag into the world of Hermès.
History and Design
The Picotin takes its name from a "picotin" — a French unit of measurement used for horse feed, roughly equivalent to a quarter of a bushel. This equestrian heritage is quintessentially Hermès, a house founded in 1837 as a harness workshop on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris.
The **Picotin Lock** — the version most widely available and collected today — added a thin leather strap and palladium or gold turn-lock closure between the handles, allowing the bag to be secured at the top. Despite this addition, the Picotin Lock retains the relaxed, open character of its predecessor. The lock is functional but subtle — most owners carry the bag open.
The design is defined by its simplicity: a single compartment with no internal pockets, a flat base, clean vertical seams and twin handles with a comfortable drop. There is no shoulder strap — the Picotin is carried by hand or in the crook of the arm.
Picotin Sizes: 18, 22 and 26
The Picotin Lock is available in three sizes, each suited to different needs.
Picotin 18 (PM) — Dimensions: approximately 18cm wide, 19cm tall, 13cm deep. The smallest size, ideal for essentials: phone, cardholder, keys and a lipstick. It works beautifully as an evening or weekend bag. The Picotin 18 has become increasingly popular in recent years, reflecting the broader trend toward compact bags.
Picotin 22 (MM) — Dimensions: approximately 22cm wide, 22cm tall, 14cm deep. The most popular size and the one most widely available. The Picotin 22 comfortably fits a phone, wallet, sunglasses, small cosmetic pouch and a few additional items. For most buyers considering their first Picotin, the 22 is the recommended starting point.
Picotin 26 (GM) — Dimensions: approximately 26cm wide, 25cm tall, 16cm deep. The largest size, offering genuine day-bag capacity. A Picotin 26 fits a tablet, water bottle, small notebook and all daily essentials comfortably.
Leathers
Clemence — A full-grain bull calf leather with a soft, slightly slouchy hand and a pronounced pebbled grain. Clemence is the most common leather for the Picotin and suits the bag's relaxed character beautifully. It is highly durable and resistant to light scratches.
Swift — A smooth, supple calfskin with a fine grain and slight sheen. Swift gives the Picotin a more refined, contemporary look but is more susceptible to scratches and water marks.
Taurillon Maurice — A grained calfskin with a tighter, more uniform pebble than Clemence. It is slightly more structured, giving the Picotin a crisper silhouette. Maurice has become increasingly popular, particularly in bold seasonal colours.
Less frequently, the Picotin appears in **Epsom**, **Barenia** and various canvas-leather combinations for limited or seasonal releases.
Colours
One of the Picotin's greatest strengths is the extraordinary range of colours available.
Classic neutrals — Noir, Gold, Étoupe, Craie and Gris tones are perennial favourites. These offer maximum versatility and hold resale value most consistently.
Popular colours — Bleu Nuit, Vert Cypress, Rouge Casaque, Bleu Saphir and Rose Sakura are widely sought-after and achieve strong resale premiums.
Seasonal colours — Each season brings new shades: Mauve Sylvestre, Bleu Royal, Jaune de Naples, Vert Fizz and others. These generate excitement but carry more resale uncertainty.
For a first Picotin, a classic neutral or widely popular colour in Clemence leather offers the best combination of wearability and value retention.
Hermès Picotin Price: Retail vs Resale
At retail, Hermès Picotin prices in 2026 are approximately: Picotin 18: £3,400–£3,800. Picotin 22: £4,000–£4,500. Picotin 26: £4,600–£5,200. These reflect standard leathers.
On the **pre-owned market**: Picotin 18 in popular colours: £3,500–£5,500 (100–145% of retail). Picotin 22 in classic colours: £3,800–£5,000 (95–120% of retail). Picotin 22 in sought-after seasonal colours: £4,500–£6,500 (110–150% of retail). Picotin 26 in standard colours: £3,800–£4,800 (85–100% of retail).
The Picotin 18 has seen the strongest resale appreciation in recent years. The Picotin 22 in classic colours typically trades near or slightly above retail — making it an excellent value proposition on the pre-owned market.
Why the Picotin Is So Popular
Relative accessibility at retail. The Picotin has historically been more accessible than the Birkin, Kelly or Constance. Some clients have been offered a Picotin without an extensive purchase history.
Approachable price point. Starting at approximately £3,400 at retail, the Picotin is one of the most affordable leather Hermès bags — the same ateliers, the same leathers, the same hand-stitching as a Birkin, at a fraction of the price.
Effortless design. In an era of logo-heavy luxury goods, the Picotin's minimalism is refreshing. There are no prominent logos, no flashy hardware, no conspicuous branding.
Versatility. The Picotin works across contexts: casual weekends, office days, evening events (particularly in the 18 size), travel and errands.
Colour experimentation. Because the Picotin is more accessible and affordable, many collectors use it to explore bolder colours and seasonal shades.
How to Style the Picotin
For everyday wear, a Picotin 22 in Gold or Étoupe Clemence pairs effortlessly with jeans, a white shirt and loafers — a combination that works equally well on a Saturday in Notting Hill or a Tuesday in the office.
For a bolder statement, a Picotin 18 in a seasonal colour — Rose Mexico, Bleu Royal, or Lime — adds a pop of colour to monochromatic outfits.
For travel, a Picotin 26 in durable Clemence leather serves as an excellent companion: open-top access for passports and boarding passes, robust enough for daily use.
The Picotin is also one of the most popular bags for **twilly styling** — wrapping a Hermès silk twilly around one or both handles adds colour, pattern and personality.
Investment Potential: Picotin vs Birkin vs Kelly
The Picotin is not primarily an investment bag in the way the Birkin 25 or Kelly Mini II are — it does not consistently trade at large premiums above retail. However, it holds value remarkably well for a bag at its price point.
A pre-owned Picotin in good condition typically retains 85–120% of its original retail price. Classic colours and smaller sizes hold value best. Compared to most luxury bags from other houses — which lose 30–50% of their value immediately upon purchase — the Picotin's value retention is exceptional.
For buyers seeking daily usability, aesthetic pleasure, colour variety and solid value retention, the Picotin offers an outstanding proposition. It is, in many ways, the most enjoyable bag in the Hermès range — because you can actually use it freely without anxiety.
Bi-Colour and Special Edition Picotins
One of the Picotin's unique strengths is the frequency with which Hermès produces **bi-colour** and **special edition** versions. These feature contrasting interior and exterior colours, or mixed leather combinations, creating distinctive pieces that stand out from the standard range.
Bi-colour Picotins — such as a Gold exterior with a Blue interior, or a Noir body with a Rose Sakura interior flash — are highly sought-after on the pre-owned market. They offer visual interest and personality without sacrificing the bag's practical versatility. Bi-colour combinations typically command premiums of 10–20% above equivalent single-colour pieces.
Canvas and leather combinations — where a Toile H canvas body is paired with leather handles and trim — offer yet another aesthetic option. These combinations are lighter in weight and have a distinctly casual, summery character. They are particularly popular among collectors who want a relaxed bag for travel and weekends.
The Picotin Lock Touch
The **Picotin Lock Touch** is a variation that pairs two different leathers — typically Clemence or Taurillon Maurice for the body with a Swift or Matte Alligator accent for the handle and lock strap. This creates a sophisticated two-texture effect that adds depth and visual interest.
The Touch series has become increasingly collectible, with certain combinations achieving strong premiums on the resale market. An alligator-touch Picotin, in particular, offers a taste of exotic Hermès at a fraction of the price of a full-exotic Birkin or Kelly.
At JULL, we regularly source and stock pre-owned Picotin Lock bags in a range of sizes, colours and leathers, including bi-colour and Touch editions. Every piece is authenticated in our London workroom. Contact us via WhatsApp to discuss your requirements.